Viveiro (Lugo)

Viveiro is a town in the province of Lugo in the autonomous community of Galicia. It has an area of 109 km² and a population of around 16,000. The abundance of prehistoric megalithic monuments and numerous fortified settlements in the Vivari region, together with the Roman remains of Viveiro and Area, attest to the antiquity of the town.

Although the first documentary mentions of the land of Vivarii date back to the year 857, its birth as a military and commercial centre dates back to between 1190 and 1210; during a period of revival of trade with Atlantic Europe, once the attacks of the Normans and Muslims had been overcome.

A town of medieval origin, Viveiro preserves its historic quarter, which is considered one of the most important in Galicia. An impressive example of its heritage is the Carlos V gate, which was granted national monument status and is also known as “A Maior” in Galician. Nearby, the Port of Celeiro specialises in fresh fish with a market and auction that make for lively entertainment.

A trip to the woods is a must, especially Souto da Retorta in Chavín, to meet 130-year-old “O Avó” (the grandfather), the tallest eucalyptus in Europe, measuring a staggering 70 metres (230 ft).

Viveiro’s Holy Week celebrations are among its most acclaimed events of the year and are even considered one of Galicia’s most important religious expressions. Several floats crowned with impressive religious sculptures, some of which have jointed limbs, play a central role in the brotherhoods’ solemn processions and an intimate and pious atmosphere fills the streets of this small Galician town. Eucharist, Via Crucis processions and incessant drum rolls, among other expressions, precede the main days of celebration.

The most popular events start on Holy Thursday with the procession representing the Last Supper. The Last Supper float was created in 1808 by a sculptor who modelled the Apostles’ sculptures on local seafarers who lived in Puerto de San Cibrao. Organised by the Prendimiento brotherhood, the Arrest procession occurs that same day and is striking for the penitents’ red and white tunics and pointed hoods.

The Holy Encounter procession is on Good Friday morning and features the sculptures of Virgin Mary of Dolours, Saint John and Veronica who encounter Jesus, who falls with the cross. This procession, considered the most emotive during Viveiro’s Holy Week, is enjoyed by the crowds in the streets and from balconies. The most opulent procession follows that representing the Descent from the Cross, the Holy Entombment, during which all participants don long, black tunics and black pointed hoods.

The Passion procession takes to the streets at midnight on Good Friday. Several brotherhoods participate, including Las Siete Palabras and Las Mujeres de Santa Cruz, with female worshippers wearing their traditional black lace “mantilla” veils over high combs. A solemn atmosphere sweeps over the town that same night, when crowds of faithful accompany the La Soledad procession with the sculptures of the Virgin Veronica, Saint John and Our Lady of Solitude.

Viveiro’s Holy Week was awarded International Tourist Interest status in 2013.